Threaded Heritage: The Handloom Textile Culture and Traditional Attire of the Mro

The Mro, indigenous to the remote hill tracts of southeastern Bangladesh, are deeply rooted in a self-sufficient, forest-dependent lifestyle. Among their many cultural expressions, the Mro have preserved a distinct and vibrant textile tradition centered around backstrap loom weaving. This craft, passed down from generation to generation, reflects not only technical skill but also aesthetic ingenuity, community values, and ecological knowledge.

Weaving as a Cultural Heritage

Backstrap loom weaving is at the heart of Mro women’s daily lives and artistic expression. Every Mro household possesses weaving tools, most notably the komor tant (backstrap loom), lim (a drop spindle resembling a spinning top), and various hand-spinning devices (charka). The raw material used is karpas (indigenous cotton), cultivated through jhum (shifting) cultivation. After harvesting, seeds are separated from the cotton using the charka. The cleaned fiber is spun into yarn using the lim, and then dyed using a wide array of natural plant-based colorants.

These dyes are extracted from local resources such as Pringso (saffron-like plants) for reds, Gram for deep blacks, turmeric for yellow, and colors derived from bean leaves and tree barks. A particularly notable plant used for black dye is ‘Sram’, a perennial grass that grows easily in jhum fields. The leaves are fermented in water and then heated to create a rich black pigment in which yarn is soaked for 24 hours to achieve colorfastness.

Key Handloom Products

Wanma (Traditional Blanket):

Woven from thick, home-spun karpas yarn, the wanma serves as a robust, warm blanket. Designs vary regionally—those from Bandarban, Ruma, and Thanchi are minimalist, typically featuring a single horizontal red stripe. In contrast, wanma from Lama, Alikadam, and Naikhongchhari often display intricate patterns. The durability of wanma makes it suitable for daily use and valued as a utilitarian item with aesthetic appeal.

Tapung (Baby-Carrying Cloth):

The tapung is a handwoven cloth used for carrying infants on the back. Typically measuring 4 hands in length and 1 hand in width, it features elaborate woven patterns at both ends. It is made from coarse karpas yarn and combines function with symbolic significance, as every mother carries her child wrapped in a piece of collective heritage.

Karma (Women’s Blouse):

The karma or traditional blouse is woven with specific measurements according to the wearer’s size. Variations in design and decoration also depend on geographic location, with those from Lama and Naikhongchhari showing more elaborate weaving techniques.

Wanklai (Women’s Lower Garment):

Wanklai, the primary lower-body garment worn by Mro women, is a quintessential expression of textile art. Woven entirely on the backstrap loom, it measures about 3–4 hands in length and 1 hand in width. While the body of the cloth is primarily black, a central strip featuring colorful geometric motifs is added using red or yellow threads. The yarn is dyed with plant-based pigments, including the Sam grass and Zafrang, a small tree producing deep red dye.

Dong (Men’s Loincloth):

Traditionally, Mro men wore a dong—a simple cloth tied around the waist with ends hanging front and back to cover the private parts. These were once woven by women from home-spun yarns and often decorated with symbolic motifs. However, the use of dong is now declining with the growing adoption of mainstream clothing like lungis and trousers.

Im (Shoulder Bag):

The im is a colorful shoulder bag woven by women from dyed karpas yarn. Each im is a canvas of intricate patterns and practical utility, often used to carry daily essentials. The skill of weaving im is a marker of a woman’s craftsmanship and cultural pride.

Wankong (Quilted Blanket):

Used during the cold season, wankong is a thick quilted blanket made by layering and sewing karpas yarn with raw cotton. Unlike wanma, this item is typically undecorated but prized for its warmth and durability.

Wanbe (Hammock Cloth):

Wanbe is a heavy, blanket-like fabric used to create baby hammocks. It is strung between two fixed points with ropes to gently cradle sleeping infants. Elderly Mro people also use wanbe as hammock-beds, embodying a cyclical sense of comfort and tradition.

Symbolism and Social Context

Weaving is more than an economic or utilitarian activity—it is a cultural rite of passage. Mro girls begin learning the art of backstrap loom weaving during adolescence, guided by elder women. Mastery over weaving, particularly the crafting of ka patterns (creative textile designs), is considered a mark of intelligence, patience, and feminine virtue.

While men’s traditional clothing has been rapidly replaced by modern attire due to accessibility and cultural shifts, women’s handwoven garments have remained more resilient, continuing to express identity and belonging. The visual language of woven designs—geometric forms, repetitive lines, and abstract symbols—acts as a silent but powerful expression of ethnic continuity and individuality.

Ecological Knowledge and Sustainability

What sets Mro textile traditions apart is their holistic integration with the local ecosystem. From cotton cultivation to natural dye extraction and weaving, every step is locally sourced and sustainably practiced. This deep ecological engagement reflects the Mro community’s long-standing relationship with the forest and its resources.

The traditional textiles of the Mro are not just clothing—they are living archives of heritage, resilience, and ecological artistry. In an age where mass-produced fabrics dominate global markets, the Mro weaving tradition stands as a powerful testament to indigenous creativity, sustainability, and cultural pride. The preservation and recognition of this craft are crucial not only for the Mro community but for the broader narrative of cultural diversity in Bangladesh.